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How to make cannabis clones

Cannabis clones, one of our members added info to help other members
You can contect him her for more info : http://cannabislove.net/cb-profile/932-cloneguy123
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Thursday, 02 March 2017 10:38

How to make cannabis clones

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Cannabis clones, one of our members added info to help other members

You can contect him her for more info : http://cannabislove.net/cb-profile/932-cloneguy123

Of all the many issues important to the success of cloning, perhaps none is more important than the nutritional status and condition of the mother plant. While it may seem rational to pot a cutting and grow it on for a long time, shifting it up when rootbound, I have had better luck in securing healthy cuttings from recently potted material. The difficulties of maintaining a big old plant, not to mention the acreage taken up by them under lights, are too numerous to detail here. The effect of root exudates

(secretions) on soil chemistry results in drift of the pH, up or down,

depending on the starting pH of the media, any additives, and especially the pH of the water and feed. Geraniums are capable of influencing the pH dramatically, and this effect is enhanced by rootbinding. Cannabis hasn't been researched for this, because it isn't a plant in horticultural commerce.

By potting up up a fresh clone or two every two months or so, you sidestep the drift issue, and you can tuck the smaller pants efficiently under the lights without having to sacrifice a big footprint to this activity. Trying to correct drift is difficult, and most cannabis growers don't have the equipment to measure the effluent or media. The mothers can be pruned and trained to produce 5 or 6 growing points, so it can be very predictable how many clones can be produced from each mother. The mothers can be grown using the same feed allocated to the regular plants. You will have better luck with your propagation with fresh moms
being benched on a regular basis. Throw away the older moms.

Select cuttings by their stem girth, color, turgor (plumpness),and the amount of leaf expansion.

You may find that the mature leaves need to be reduced to avoid wilting and to provide equal exposure to each in the propagation bed under the dome. The leaves will jockey for exposure to light after sitting a while, and maintaining turgor need to be discussed here. I like to use a nutrient mist, foliar feed with a TDS of 450 to 900 ppm. This is misted on the mothers an hour before harvesting cuttings. Collect them in a poly bag which you mist frequently during the harvest. Hold these in shade and turn the bag regularly to distribute the free water and to avoid curling of the stems. Think of asparagus; growers supply them in tight bundles, and sellers display them upright,otherwise the stems will curl. This is known as GEOTROPISM, the movement of cut stems away from the force of gravity.

The portions you cut need to be larger and longer than that which you get after PREPARING the cuttings.
As you select your stems, cut about an inch down below where you will make your final cut, then toss it into the bag. After collecting the number you want plus a few to discard, prepare your rooting media. I am now using the ProMix BX with microrhizzae, having found the sponges and rockwool cubes too expensive.
Add your media to cell packs no larger than 1 inch, compressing the moist media equally into each cell.
Scrape this level, and set aside while you select your first cutting.

I am using "Dip-n- Grow,

and I follow the directions for dilution. I find no advantage to cutting the stem at a 45 degree angle, but the pointed end makes sticking the cuttings easier. Wait until the end to water them in, do not omit this step, or they will wilt. Prepare the cutting estimating the depth of the cell, and decide where you want the cut end to wind up. Scrape the stem, with a razor or utility blade,confining the scraping to the portion of the stem which will finish below the soil surface, and make your final cut Note that the stem will have raised ridges, and lightly slide the blade across the stem until some material is raised; this is called wounding the stem. Dip the cutting into the rooting fluid for the time recommended. Fold the foliage between your fingers with the point exposed so that when you stick the cutting, your fingertips stop at the surface, and lightly compress the media. The cutting should resist a slight tug without coming out, but the moist media should not be too compressed. After preparing and sticking all your cuttings, water in and cover with a dome,after spraying the inside of the dome also. Spray the leaves and inside the dome 2 or 3 times a day for three days, until the leaves begin to stretch. Keep at between 70 and 75 degrees F. Light must be reduced by shading with a poly bag on top of the dome. Use as much time in the rooting fluid as you can without burning the stem, the higher doses tolerated will reduce time to rooting, and provide you with a greater number of roots.
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